finishing - mosaic jig qal

Thanks for joining us for last edition of our quilt along instructions. Are you all caught up? Did you figure out the design or is it still a mystery?


Thank you for sharing your progress photos and quilting along with us. We truly appreciate it. I hope you have had as much fun as we have had!

Here is a reminder of previous posts if you missed one.

Intro
Material and Fabric Requirements (March 1)
Preparation and Cutting Instructions (March 15)
Center Mosaic Medallion (March 29)
Border One (April 12)
Mosaic Blocks (April 26)
Record Blocks (May 10)
Finishing (May 26)
Show and Tell (June 28)*

*We will have one more post, where you can show off all of your hard work and share your Mosaic Jig Medallion quilt.

Preparation & Reminders

Please read through the instructions before you begin. You should have knowledge of sewing as well as how to use templates to complete this quilt.

• Use high quality patchwork/quilting fabrics and thread for longer endurance.
• All dimensions are given in inches.
• Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise given.
• Finger press as you go. Press with a warm iron to set your seams. Do not use steam to set seams.
• Use a 2.0 stitch length for smaller blocks. Use a 2.0 - 2.5 stitch length for larger blocks.
• Clip off dog ears as you sew. 
• Backstitch at the starting and stopping points when sewing curves.

Additionally, if you are using a translator to translate this information, the fractions will probably be lost in the translation. Please print out the original dimensions.

Copyright

All designs and templates are protected under copyright laws and may not be photocopied, duplicated or reproduced in any form other than the original purchaser for personal, private use. No commercial use of any kind is granted without the written consent from Karen Ackva or easypatchwork. May not be used as teaching material nor used in sellable items. All designs © Karen Ackva - easypatchwork.

Finishing

Our last assignment is also intermediate level. Again, we will be sewing curves on the last block, Rounded Corner block, using the leftover Patches E & F, but you may also choose the "cheater way" and fake it with a cathedral window style curve.Again, it is very important that you sew curves with a smaller stitch than normal - about 2.0 on your machine as well as with your needle position down so you can maintain a consistent flow when rotating your fabric on the curves. Here are the instructions as a PDF for added help.

Here is what you need to cut to finish off the design:

				Total Number of Patches
Shape	Patch	Dimension in Inches	Subcut	Accent	Main	Med 1	Med 2	BG
Templates	E*	6 ½ x 6 ½	E					4*
	F*	3 ½ x 3 ½	F		4*
Rectangles	S	2 ¼ x WOF		7
	T	4 ½ x 60 ½			2
	U	4 ½ x 68 ½			2

* Cut squares as indicated. There are two different methods/designs for you to choose from for these patches. If you do not want to make the small curved piecing, cut squares and follow Method 2 for the Rounded Corner Blocks. If not, cut templates with rounded corners.

Making the Rounded Corner Blocks

First you need to decide if you want to make the blocks using curved piecing or go for the cheater method. The cheater method or fake piecing uses the same type of construction as you would when making cathedral windows.

Method One

Cut out your squares. Use the templates to finish the rounded corners of the patches. Poke a hole in the templates with a straight pin and transfer the mark on to the wrong side of the patches using a non-permanent marker or washable pen. Line up the marks of Patch E and Patch F (right sides together) and pin in place. Fill with as many pins as you need to sew the curve. I personally think I overdid the amount in the photo. : ) Make sure you set a pin in each of the dots - this will be the starting and stopping points and will need a couple of backstitches to secure the seam.

Take the block over to your sewing machine. Backstitch at the beginning of your seam. Sew, rotating the block with your left hand gently and sew the curve slowly. When you get to the last pin, backstitch.

Press the corner patch outwards. If the curve doesn't look exactly curvy, set it aside and come back to it after you practice a few more times. (I think I sewed this one a second time.)

Method Two

If you have ever made a Cathedral Window quilt or pillow case, you are familiar with this next method.

Cut your the required squares Patches E & F.

Take the smaller square and fold in half diagonally.

Place the folded square in the upper right corner matching up the raw edges . Pin in place. Baste with a 1/8th seam allowance with a 3,0 stitch length.

Now you can use this patch as you would any other patch. Sew borders or blocks as described in the instructions. (I used some scraps just for demonstration purposes.)

You can see here that the bias (diagonal) edge is pliable and can easily be folded back.

After the entire quilt top is assembled and ready to be quilted, pull the folded edges back and pin in place. (Again, demonstration purposes. Just imagine the quilt is finished.)

Now topstitch or quilt in place.

If you compare the template to the rounded edge, you can see that they are not identical. If you want the curve to be more like the template, pull the bias edge even deeper in towards the corner.

That's it for those corner patches. Whew! Now it is time to put it all together. Layout all of your patches so this is what you see.

To keep it straight when laying out your patches, the quilt is symmetrical across the diagonal of the quilt.

Please refer to the PDF for more helpful hints when putting it all together.

When adding the borders, I generally cut a little longer than needed and trim to the edges later when squaring up both edges of the quilt.

Trouble Shooting

Here are some photos of problems that occurred when sewing everything together.

Problem: these points aren't matching up when sewing. It looks like the Record Blocks are too big. Unpick the seam where the arrows are. Try sewing the Record blocks together with a larger seam allowance to make the blocks smaller. Finish the open seam.

Problem: everything matches up, except the centers of the Record Blocks. ?!&$ It looks like the bottom block wasn't correctly sewn. Disassembled the four patch block shown below. 

Return back to this step to verify the curves are sewn correctly.

Here is what my quilt looked like when laying it out. It covers my entire floor measuring 70" x 70".

The entire quilt will remain a surprise until we all are finished. My quilt is currently at a long arm quilter having her beauty treatment. I can't wait to get it back and see how Birgit Schüller performed her magic. It is the first time Birgit, world renowned German quilt artist, is quilting one of my quilts!! I am very anxious and excited! I was privileged enough to take one of her long arm classes and fell in love with her work!

So now you have one month to sew it all together and get your quilt quilted. We run a tight ship around here, you know! We will be having a little show and tell starting June 28, 2019. Please join us then to see a parade of Mosaic Jig Medallion quilts. If you are interested in the pattern without having to read through all of the blog posts, you can also purchase the entire pattern on Etsy.

Thank you so much for dropping by! Happy quilting!
-Karen

mosaic jig qal - border one

Hi Everyone! Thanks for joining us on another edition of the Mosaic Jig Quilt Along. This week we will be putting on the first border. It will be an easy assigment with a little bit of applique. I hope you will like it.

First of all, I would like to thank each and everyone of you for reading my blog posts and participating in the quilt along. I am very honored! Thank you!

Here is a reminder of previous posts if you missed one.

Intro
Material and Fabric Requirements (March 1)
Preparation and Cutting Instructions (March 15)
Center Mosaic Medallion (March 29)
Border One (April 12)
Mosaic Blocks (April 26)
Record Blocks (May 10)
Finishing (May 26)

Preparation & Reminders

Please read through the instructions before you begin. You should have knowledge of sewing as well as how to use templates to complete this quilt.

• Use high quality patchwork/quilting fabrics and thread for longer endurance.
• All dimensions are given in inches.
• Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise given.
• Finger press as you go. Press with a warm iron to set your seams. Do not use steam to set seams.
• Use a 2.0 stitch length for smaller blocks. Use a 2.0 - 2.5 stitch length for larger blocks.
• Clip off dog ears as you sew.

Additionally, if you are using a translator to translate this information, the fractions will probably be lost in the translation. Please print out the original dimensions.

Copyright

All designs and templates are protected under copyright laws and may not be photocopied, dublicated or reproduced in any form other than the orginal purchaser for personal, private use. No commercial use of any kind is granted without the written consent from Karen Ackva or easypatchwork. May not be used as teaching material nor used in sellable items. All designs © Karen Ackva - easypatchwork.

Border One

Let's get on to the first border, shall we? It is rather simple with a few dots in the corners and a striped border that will fram the center mosaic block. It shouldn't take that long to make it. You can read the below blog post for in-depth photo explanations and download the PDF with pattern-like illustrations on my website.

Let us first start with the appliqué dots. If you do not like to appliqué at all and don't wish to make those round dots, just use an accent-colored square 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" instead. The effect will be slightly different, but still look great.

Here's what you need to get started:

				Total Number of Patches
Shape	Patch	Dimensions in Inches	Subcut	Accent	Main	Med 1	Med 2	BG
Template	D	3 ½ x 3 ½	D	4
Squares	DB	3 ½ x 3 ½						4
Rectangles	P	3 ½ x 5 ½						8
	Q	1 ⅝ x 20 ½						8
	R	1 ¼ x 20 ½		4

 

Make the Dots

 

Method 1

There are several methods of appliqué - Raw Edge, Needle-Turn, and Starch Appliqué. There is also another method which my friend, Katrin, reminded me about. (She is also sewing along, so go check out her account!) It is actually the very first method I used when learning how to appliqué. There must be a name for it. I refer to it as Stitch-n-Flip Appliqué. So if you know the name, please share with us.

You will need your accent circles cut out along the seam allowance of the template. Place it right-sides-together on the the fabric dryer sheet or light (non-fusible) interfacing or Stich and Tear product. Sew around the edge of the circle with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Make a small slit in the middle of the interfacing. Trim the dryer sheet flush with the dot.

Cut slits in the seam allowance on the outer edge of the dot to allow it to better hold the roundness of the curves. Flip right side out. Adjust the curves by pushing the seam allowance outward with a pair of scissors or a chopstick. Press. Center on the background DB square. Appliqué with your favorite stitch. Finished.

Method 2

After preparing my dots using Method 1, I didn't really like the choppy edge of the dots. I decided to use raw edge appliqué for my blocks instead. Since my quilt will probably not get washed, this is the best option for me. It is simple, quick and gives me the best result.

Fuse squares of fabric to backed fusible web such as Pellon Wunder Under or Vliesoline Soluvlies. Trace the circles onto the webbing.

Cut out carefully along the circle outlines. If your raw edge is not perfect, it will be seen on the end block. Take extra care when cutting.

Peel off the paper. Fuse the center of the squares. (Find the center of the squares by folding in half horizontally and vertically creasing in the middle with your fingers.)

Appliqué with your favorite stitch. (I used a simple 2,5 straight stitch in matching thread.) You can see the direct comparison of my blocks below. Which method appeals to you more?

Striped Borders

Take one R stripe and sew one Q stripe to each side. Press towards the middle. Measure the width. It may be slightly wider than 3 1/2". I originally had a larger width dimension in the Q patches just in case your center mosaic was sewn larger. Trim about 1/8" off of each side if you used the original cutting guide. If you use the dimensions stated in this post, you shouldn't have to trim anything off.

 

Finishing the Border

Add one side border to each side of your Mosaic Jig Medallion. Sew a Dot block to each end of the remaining two Striped borders and add to the top and bottom of the center block. Finished.

Now was that easy or what?

Please share with all of us your progress on Instagram using the hashtag #mosaicjigqal. We look forward to seeing all of your beautiful quilts.

Join us on April 26 for the Mosiac Jig blocks. They will be a bit more challenging, but I know you can do it. Here's a another sneak peek of what's to follow.

Thank you for stopping by. Happy quilting!