First of all, I would like to thank each and everyone of you for reading my blog posts and even participating in the quilt along. I am very honored and grateful! Thank you!
Here is a reminder of previous posts if you missed one.
Intro
Material and Fabric Requirements (March 1)
Preparation and Cutting Instructions (March 15)
Center Mosaic Medallion (March 29)
Border Blocks (April 12)
Mosaic (April 26)
Record Blocks (May 10)
Finishing (May 26)
Preparation & Reminders
Please read through the instructions before you begin. You should have knowledge of sewing as well as how to use templates to complete this quilt.- Use high quality patchwork/quilting fabrics and thread for longer endurance.
- All dimensions are given in inches.
- Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance for all seams unless otherwise given.
- Finger press as you go. Press with a warm iron to set your seams. Do not use steam to set seams.
- Use a 2.0 stitch length for smaller blocks. Use a 2.0 - 2.5 stitch length for larger blocks.
- Snip off dog ears as you sew.
Copyright
All designs and templates are protected under copyright laws and may not be photocopied, dublicated or reproduced in any form other than the orginal purchaser for personal, private use. No commercial use of any kind is granted without the written consent from Karen Ackva or easypatchwork. May not be used as teaching material nor used in sellable items. All designs © Karen Ackva - easypatchwork.Center Mosaic Block
Now on to the first block of our medallion quilt. I designed a four-patch mosaic block. If you look at it closely, you will see four blocks. However, where the blocks butt up against each other, the lines are missing. This creates more interest when looking at the block. Do you see the big X in the middle? Does your eye tend to travel over the block or does it stop at one point?If you have never sewn large blocks this could be a totally new experience for you . This block is huge (measuring 30" x 30"). We will break it down into smaller segments. Enjoy the larger scale, because we will get smaller along the way.
Here is what you need to get started.
Total Number of Patches
| ||||||||
Shape
|
Patch
|
Dimension in Inches
|
Subcut
|
Accent
|
Main
|
Med 1
|
Med 2
|
BG
|
Triangles
|
G
|
8 ¾ x 8 ¾
|
(4) QST
|
16
|
8
| |||
H
|
4 ⅝ x 4 ⅝
|
(2) HST
|
10
|
16
|
10
| |||
Squares
|
K
|
5 ¾ x 5 ¾
|
2
|
2
|
4
| |||
L
|
4 ¼ x 4 ¼
|
6
|
Lay it out
Lay out your patches for the block on a large area such as a wall, table or floor to get an idea of the exact placement of your fabric. We will be making units and then sewing together in diagonal and horizontal rows.Below you will find a condensed version of the instructions. You can find the full version here for your convenience.
Making Sub-Units
Make (10) HST's. Trim to 4 1/4" x 4 1/4".Make (2) Unit 1's. Trim to 4 1/4" x 8".
Make (4) Unit 2's. Trim to 4 1/4" x 8".
Make (4) Flying Geese. Trim to 4 1/4" x 8".
Make (2) Diamond in a Square Blocks. Trim to 8" x 8".
Sewing Instructions for the Rows
Row 1 & Row 5- Sew one HST to each corresponding Flying Geese unit, nesting seams. Press outwards towards the corner. Repeat for the other side.
- Sew one HST/Flying Geese unit to each side of Unit 1. Press in the direction shown. Make (2) rows and set aside.
- Sew two G triangles together. Press in the directions shown. Repeat for the other side.
- Sew one G triangle to each side of corresponding K square as shown. Press outwards (up and down). Repeat for the remaining two diagonal sections.
- Finish the entire row by nesting the seams and sewing the rows together. Finger press in the direction shown. Make (2) rows. Set aside.
- Sew one Unit 2 to the correct side of each Diamond in a Square blocks. Press towards Unit 2.
- Make the Bow Tie block by sewing and nesting two Unit 2's together. Pop the center to create a spinning seam. Press.
- Finish sewing the row by connecting all units. Press in the direction shown.
Set your seams and press with a warm iron.
Good luck with sewing your block together! If you have any problems, don't hesitate to ask. You can link up your block below or on Instagram: #mosaigjigqal #mosaicjigquiltalong
*******
Here are some of my favorite tips to keep mind.
When sewing rows together, always start where two seams will butt up against each other. Using your finger nail, push the seams into each other to nest and pin in place. Fill the rest of the seam with straight pins as needed.Sew and remove pins. Since I am right-handed, I pin perpendicular to the seam with the glass head on the right.
When sewing, keep your iron turned off and finger press as you sew. Set your seams and "flatten" after the block is sewn together to prevent stretching and distorting the seams. When you work with triangles, you will have a lot of bias edges. Spray with starch before sewing or even cutting.
Measure your blocks and rows before sewing them together. If they don't match what is written in the instructions, you should trim or square them within reason. Use large rulers and cut off the excess. It is more important that the 1/4" seam allowance remains intact rather than the length and width of the block/row is exact. In other words, it is more important that your blocks are consistent rather than accurate in measurements. Chances are, if you sew everything together with more than 1/4" seam allowance, that's okay, as long as everything is consistent.
After you sew a row together, check to see if your points match up. The points should match but be offset (not touching tips) about 1/16" when opening up the seam. Why? Because the seams are pressed to one side and not open. If they don't match up, rip the seam about one inch before and one inch after the point you are trying to correct. Preform a "preliminary" basting with about five or six stitches. Open back up to see if it worked. If so, sew a second time over the entire two inches directly over the same seam. If not, rip the seam and try again.
Looking forward to what comes next? Here's another sneak peek. That looks like applique!
Please join us on April 12, 2019 for the border blocks. Thanks for reading! Happy patching!